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MULTI-CELL

WHY USE MULTI-CELL?

The description below is borrowed from Patrick Kelly's document “D9.PDF”:

The current flowing through the cell determines its HHO production. This is an absolutely key factor in gas production, and one of the most difficult to control accurately and economically. The greater the current, the greater the rate of gas production. The current is controlled by the concentration of Baking Soda in the water and the voltage across the cell. The voltage across the cell has limited effect as it reaches a maximum at 1.24 volts. Up to that point, an increase in voltage causes an increase in gas production rate. Once the voltage gets over this limit, increasing it further produces no further increase in the rate of gas production.

If the voltage is increased above 1.24 volts, the extra voltage goes to heat the water. This can be a slight advantage, but not much. (The advantage is that heat creates more water vapor which is good for cooling down the engine.)

Let's look at the math. We'll simplify it here for the sake of understanding. Assume that the current through the cell is 2 amps. In that case, the power used to produce gas is 2 amps x 1.24 volts = 2.48 watts. When the engine is running, the voltage at the car's battery terminals will be about 13.8 volts as the alternator provides the extra voltage to drive current into the battery. The excess voltage applied to the cell is about 1.24 less than that, or 12.56 volts.

The power which heats the electrolyte is now 12.56 volts x 2 amps = 25.12 watts. That is more than ten times the power being used to produce gas! This is very inefficient. The following diagram will help you understand the situation.

multi-cell

In short: The more cells, the less heat and more HHO. Or, more correctly, higher energy efficiency for HHO production. This is true up to 6 or 7 cells max.

So the best way to reduce heat and increase HHO production is to reduce the voltage applied to the cell by using more than one cell, or in other words several cells connected in a daisy-chain across the battery. With two cells, each will get about seven volts across it and the gas production will be doubled. If space in the engine compartment allows, a chain of six cells can be used which means each receives about two volts and the waste power is reduced to an absolute minimum - while the gas production is six times higher.

With the higher rate of gas production, it would probably be possible to reduce the chosen current flowing through the cell (good for smaller batteries and alternators such as in gas scooters and go carts). Also, with six cells, the amount of water is six times greater and so there will be less concentrating of the electrolyte due to the water being used up.

Let's summarize the benefits of the multi-cell setup:

1. Multiply HHO production,

2. Reduce heat,

3. More water stored in the system.

HOW TO BUILD A MULTI-CELL

GENERAL DESCRIPTION AND THE "OLD" DESIGN

By "old" is meant about 1 year, in this ever-changing industry of ours... We will look at the new design in a minute, but first lets take a look at the basics. This is particularly important to know for those who are already familiar with logo six-cell or "6-pack" as they call it.

If there is room in the engine compartment, then anything up to seven of these cells may be installed and connected in series across the battery. The old logo multi-cell design (some call it "6-pack") had a hard-to-make pipework that was daisy-chained from one cell to another. The air was being drawn into the engine passing through each cell, picking up more and more gas on the way, as shown below:

multi-cell

The upper part of the diagram shows the electrical connection between the cells while the lower part of the diagram shows how the hoses are connected. While the cells are shown side by side in the diagram, they can be positioned in any convenient location(s) in the engine compartment. As the temperature in the engine compartment can be quite high, the cell housings needs to be unaffected by high temperatures, which make some plastic containers unsuitable for this use.

I used 6 glass jars and positioned them between the radiator and the front bumper (click the photo to enlarge):

THE NEW DESIGN

multi-cell

I am in the process of building it, so results are unknown yet. But if the old design gave 61 MPG, who knows what the new one will yield... What is already know is that the new logo multi-cell improves on the old one in several key factors:

First of all, each single device is built with the same materials, structure and procedures described in my e-books, so they can now be duplicated more easily. From personal experience I can tell you, this standardization alone will make it much easier on you. The old one had a quite tricky plumbing.
It allows for expansion to any number of cells. You can build a "12-pack" and place it in the trunk, or go wherever the imagination takes you. 36-pack? Why not? If your engine is large and your alternator can take it, I can see no reason why not.
Electrical connection: instead of all cells (Electrolyzers) in series, it's only two in series, giving 6 Volts to each cell. Through trial and error I FOUND 6 VOLTS TO BE THE OPTIMAL VOLTAGE WHEN WORKING WITH BAKING SODA.

Then you connect each such pair to another pair as shown in the diagram above. The electrical current taken from the vehicle would be a multiplication of the number of pairs you connect. For example, if each of your pairs takes 2 Amps, and you have 10 Amps to spare, you can connect five pairs in parallel.
The spiral has been doubled in density. Here's why: The regular design of Electrolyzer calls for a spiral electrode, spread about 1/2" to 3/8" apart. AT 6 VOLTS it takes too little current with one or two teaspoons of baking soda. I was therefore using EIGHT teaspoons (per quart jar) to get as much current as possible. This yielded in 2.2 amps flowing through the cell, and no more. Why no more? Because the water gets saturated at 8 teaspoons, and refuses to take more. (Some tell me to replace the Baking Soda with KOH or other chemicals and get more current, but I'd rather keep everybody in the safe zone of Baking Soda).

Now with the new design, double density coil will result in double the current or thereabout. I am going to start with 4 teaspoons and fine tune by trial and error for best performance. I believe that if 8 teaspoons will yield 4 Amps we can NOW live with that.

I mean, a single cell operating under 12 volts is starting get too hot with 4 amps (depending on the weather and location under the hood). But with lower heat being generated due to the lower voltage, this could be the ideal setup. See, 4 amps multiplied by 3 would give me 12 Amps in my improved "6-pack". Only 144 Watt which the car can easily provide, yet great HHO production, estimated 5-6 times stronger than a single jar Electrolyzer.

Photo showing double density coil, about 1/4" (6mm)
between wires. This is done to increase current at 6 volts.

IMPORTANT - mechanical connection: the old design had the HHO hoses going from cell number 1 to cell number 2, and from there to cell number 3 and so forth. This created an uneven vacuum throughout the design, and if there are more than 6 cells I think the vacuum will get lost - some of the cells further away from the engine would simply leak via the safety valve into the atmosphere, lowering the effectiveness of the entire arrangement.

Now the cells are getting an even vacuum supply. Each cell has the same design: one bubbler valve (see photo), one safety release valve, one HHO output (block one if you happen to have two hoses already, or better yet connect it to the manifold for better flow). If you have only two cells, one universal vacuum-T will do to connect them together (combining the outputs). A manifold is needed if there are 4 or more cells. The manifold can be a larger tubing, or a small plastic bottle. Make sure to make the manifold from a sturdy bottle or tubing, so it doesn't collapse under the strong vacuum.

Photo showing simple connection between two Electrolyzers (in case of 4 or
more you'd better make some kind of a manifold instead of T-Connectors)

INSTALLATION CONSIDERATIONS

The way to connect a multi-cell to the engine is pretty simple and straightforward as described in my e-book ("Modify Your Car to Save Gas USING WATER", or "User Manual"). If you're using the dual HHO connection, which means you supply HHO to both the Intake Manifold of the engine AND the Air Intake, then two output check valves are recommended as usual.

One last remark: in my opinion there is no room for a sloppy job when it comes to a multi-cell arrangement of any size. Since there are so many places that the electrical connection or the mechanical connection can go wrong, you have to make sure that:

There are no loose electrical connections, and
There are no vacuum leaks anywhere on the Electrolyzers, the manifold or the hose leading to the engine.

Since this is all experimental, I'd love to hear feedbacks from your experience.

HOW TO BUILD THESE CELLS CHEAPLY

...and more importantly -
HOW TO USE THEM TO MAXIMIZE YOUR ECONOMY

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